It was one of those days. Nothing felt right, everything felt MEH, in capitals. I have felt that way for weeks now and I was tossing in bed, feeling like an empty bottle of ketchup - purposeless. It was then my husband picked his laptop from the floor, opened it up and went on RyanAir.
"Where do you want to go? Tell me, and I'll book the tickets."
"Nowhere but somewhere, anywhere." (Told you I was difficult)
After browsing different options, we made a decision to commit to Oslo, Norway. A country we have rarely heard of previously - it is not Paris, Rome or Barcelona, far from a popular holiday destination. We had to even look up where it was on a map; we had no clue. Before even looking up what we could do there, we had already had our tickets booked - no turning back now.
Four weeks later, we filled our backpacks with the essentials for a weekend away in the uncharted (by us) lands of Scandinavia. Little did we know it is very close! Just shy of three hours by plane. My mom had a friend there who we planned to visit, and we also agreed to explore the woods located a little outside the city centre. But really that was the extent of our research - we are rubbish at planning. Coincidentally, when we were about to board the train to the airport for our adventure, I realised I left my phone charging at home. I would like to say that it was a conscious decision to unplug, but it really wasn't. There were heart palpitations and feelings of impending doom after realising I wouldn't be with my constant companion for a few days.
What time is it?
Was there an email I forgot to reply?
Damn, I needed to whatsapp her about the thing!
Watching my two hands fidget without its exercise toy was entertaining - no phone, free thumbs. It was scary, but extremely liberating at the same time. In the train, instead of cocooning myself to my screen, I was forced to look up at people and observe the scenery through the glass windows. We passed rivers, boats, lakes, trailer parks and smarties coloured houses. All I would have missed if I had Instagram open. But I digress, this blogpost is about Norway.
In a nutshell, it was a magical, thought provoking trip. Usually on our mini getaways, we gain headspace, away from the drudgery of everyday responsibilities. But rarely do we get enough of it to ponder and reflect on life itself. But this time we did. From the many thoughts that we had, here are five:
1. Green is grand
Not only was there literally no trash on public streets, it was as if the city was built around the trees that makeup the woodlands. On the first day, we took a train ride 20 minutes outside of the city centre. The carriage swerved in and out of dark tunnels, between houses and through the forest to get to our destination which was a deserted station on top of a mountain literally in the middle of nowhere. As we were circling around the hills to get to the top, the train tracks were mere inches away from the edge. "A gust of wind, and we could easily topple over," I thought, "But that's ok, that beautiful, sparkling blue lake would cushion our landing." Fortunately, the only drama we experienced were brothers pushing each other in seats opposite us. We finally arrived at Frognersteren (I attempted to pronounce this to the ticket officer at the station, and he actually knew what I was trying to say... phew!). It was literally a station, then forest. So into the forest we went, without a map or any clue where we were heading.
We collectively decided to wing it. We are "Let's just follow these well treaded tracks and see where this leads us" kind of people. That ultimately was a good decision as we managed to see so many great things like the olympic ski jump, people roller skiing up hills, a person dirt biking through the woods, and we even caught glimpses of the city centre below. It was so serene and quiet, I could here my heart thumping through my chest. The air was also icy cold, it left a stinging feeling in my lungs - this must what fresh air smell like! Gosh, being enveloped by nature is so amazing. Mind you, I was never a nature-y person before this. I tended to substitute hiking with documentaries about hiking. But honestly, there is no substitute for real life experiences. I wish there was a Nordmarka on my doorstep back home in Malaysia where currently there are no trees, but more like increasingly tall skyscrapers interwoven between packed highways. There I have to close my eyes to find space. But here, there aren't any distractions even with my eyes wide - I can just breathe.
2. Family first
At the end of our self-guided tour through the woods and around quaint surrounding neighbourhoods, we hopped on a train and bus to get to the house of a family friend. She, her husband and their three kids lived in a majestic white house with the sea as their backyard. "Are we sure this is the right house?" I asked as we slowly approached it through its driveway. Sure enough, we knocked and we were greeted at the front door. They have been living in Oslo for 2 years now and they couldn't be any happier. The kids are happy at school, even the youngest 1 year old goes to nursery from 7.30am to 5.30pm (the norm here in Norway). During dinner, we had a lengthy conversation about life in Norway and to our surprise, we discovered the many policies and social norms that prioritised family. For instance, if one has a baby in Norway, the family gets a gift of an equivalent of GBP 5000. Not only that, mothers are given 1 year maternity leave (topped up by the government if private firms give less) and nurseries are highly subsidised by the government too. So most mothers go back to the workforce, not worrying about childcare.
Even in the offices, you would be pushed to find someone staying past 5 pm. The working culture in Norway is such that one clocks in at 9am and works non-stop till 5pm with no long lunches or 10 minute Facebook breaks in between. And working over the weekend? A definite no. Drinks after work? Also rare - they expect you to be home with your family. Having worked in this environment for 2 years now, our friend, A admits that it would be hard to adjust once he is transferred to another country. Very understandable cause really, having tasted this, would anything be as good? The amount that the government spend on Danish families was staggering, yet it all made alot of sense. A great nation is built upon stable families. Why nurture the tree through its branches when you can go for its root?
3. Where are all the LVs?
Another interesting observation we made was that everyone in Oslo were relatively unglamorous. Compared to Kuala Lumpur and London where designer labels are present everywhere you turn, in Oslo, people dressed relatively plainly in their boots, sweaters and winter coats. Women didn't have heavy make up on and did without any designer bags on their arms. I asked our locals directly, "The Norwegians are really not the show-offey type, are they? I am guessing looking at the size of their houses and the price of their food, they can actually afford luxury items but why don't we see them?"
They then told us of their neighbour who was a big shot businessman. He owned two Porsches. However, instead of showing it off on his driveway, his prize possessions are kept hidden in his garage, only seeing daylight when he drives quickly away in them. "They don't like displaying their wealth here. It is frowned upon," they said. "If they went on a holiday on a private cruise in the Bahamas during the summer, when they come back, the extent that they would let people know is: "We went away." They treasure quality products but not with large Ls and Vs on the material - no one should know that." This collective humility is definitely something to be applauded and followed. It helps that the high tax rates in Norway makes inequality in the country quite narrow. So when everyone is somewhat equal, there is little reason to boast.
4. The toilet is how much now?
Speaking of its taxes, the financial price of equality also means everything is ridiculously expensive. For instance, a small bottle of water will set you back 2.50 pounds. And a trip to the public toilet will also cost you 2 pounds (but to be fair, it was really clean, and you can enter by swiping your debit card!). The bus trip from the airport to the city centre alone would have blown half our budget. No wonder this isn't a prime destination for money-pinched students (like myself). Our wallets however were eventually saved by the museums (free!), activities like hiking (free!) and kebab shops (not free, but affordable!). As an oil rich country, I guess Norway can afford hiking up the price of goods and with it, its taxes. Norway is not in the EU, and that makes things so much more expensive. If this is the future of Britain, I can already envisage a skinnier older self.
5. Slow down
On our last day, before we headed off to the airport, we sat on a bench overlooking the marina. It was a Sunday, nothing was open. Even supermarkets were closed. We sat there observing the city, noticing that it was as if we were watching a film and someone played it at half its original speed. There on the road, the cars were moving slowly, no beeps or horns can be heard. In the sea, there was a boat chugging, also very slowly - like it had no deadline or timetable to adhere to. People were also casually strolling with their dogs or partners in a stop start rhythm - nothing like the steam engine pace that I am used to in London during rush hour. Their pauses are part of them like our "fast forward" is part of us.
The nutshell
I just feel that the Norwegians understand what life is ultimately about. It isn't about chasing money or deadlines, nor is it being stuck in the mistakes of the past. It is rather being very present in the here and now. It is experiencing where you are and who you are in the context of this big universe at this specific moment in time. It is being aware of your surroundings and preserving them. It is realising a large part of who you are comes from your family, and investing in that. It is being truly content with your identity, health and wealth by not putting them on constant display.
They just freaking get it.